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Haute Spot: EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine

EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine: A Taste of Spain in Chinatown 
By Rob Kachelriess

The diversity of Las Vegas’ culinary scene may be best represented in Chinatown, where options go far beyond predictable Asian dining. A great example is EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine, an intimate, 40-seat restaurant near Jones and Spring Mountain. To clear up any confusion, the name is pronounced “ee-dee-oh”, which is not only a nod to Chef Oscar Amado Edo, but also a play on the phrase “extra day off”–fitting since a meal here feels like a vacation from less adventurous dining options. Chef Edo opened the restaurant with managing partner Roberto Liendo in September, following the duo’s success with Boqueria Street, a food truck that’s being renamed EDO Street to keep branding on point. Both spent time at fine dining destinations on the Strip, but teamed up to carry out their own vision for ingredient-driven Spanish cuisine that aims to combine as many vibrant flavors as possible into a single meal.  

EDO is best enjoyed via their 10-course tasting menu–an incredible deal at $45 per person with a $35 add-on wine flight. The selections change frequently based on the season, availability of fresh ingredients, and the mood and impulses of Chef Edo. Iberico ham, cultivated from Spanish pigs fed a full acorn diet, makes its presence felt frequently. Early in the meal, it’s presented as delicate slices of charcuterie, handled effectively with a pair of tweezers. Described as an extension of the customer’s fingers, the unique utensil is a familiar sight at trendy Barcelona restaurants. As the meal progresses, Iberico may resurface in a savory clam chowder or, best of all, a loin cut known as pluma, which has the texture of a steak and is lightly seared on a flat top grill. Toppings include herb-filled Cafe de Paris butter, a Palo Cortado sherry reduction, and thin potato puff pastries that balance out the meat with a salty crunch. It’s the best pork you’ll enjoy all year.     

Spanish street fare is reflected in dishes both hot and cold. The mild consistency of cold-water Spanish octopus is given a slight kick with spicy kimchi bread crumbs, while the bikini sandwich works as a thin-pressed square of sobrasada sausage and Mahón cheese. In a calculated move, paella is almost always served near the end of the meal, so customers can feel comfortable filling up on rice after reserving most of their appetite for earlier, smaller dishes. Tomatoes and garlic are put to good use in the seafood-heavy Paella Marinera, presented with a sand timer that runs for five minutes when turned over–counting down the time it takes for the temperature to settle and flavors to emerge.    

Lighter dishes include a cured Scottish salmon crostini, smoked on the spot with applewood, and topped with black truffle cream cheese. The imported cristal bread, weighed down with fresh tomatoes and olive oil, is a traditional Spanish favorite, with a thin, crunchy crust that breaks away easily into a soft, airy dough.

EDO is so small, there’s no room for a full bar. Instead, drinks are efficiently prepared at a cocktail cart in the back corner of the dining room. Gin & Tonics are the specialty of the house, but don’t overlook the Bitter Andy, a modified Old Fashioned made with Montana’s Whistling Andy bourbon and the subtle sweetness of salted caramel syrup. The wine selection leans toward unconventional, yet affordable labels from Spain, France, Italy and California. At least five amaros are kept in stock at any given time, ready to complement dessert–especially the light and refreshing shaved strawberry ice, served alongside a heavy whipped cream and sprinkled with popcorn dust.  

Learn more about EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine by visiting edotapas.com or stopping by the restaurant at 3400 South Jones Boulevard. 

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