From Ruby to Tawny: An Intro to Port Wine

By Gordon Gilbert

What do you think of when you hear the word “port”? Landed gentry puffing cigars in the gentlemen’s clubs of London? A platter of powerful cheese that it might complement? That side trip you took to Portugal while backpacking around Europe? Port’s semi-stuffy image has kept it from being popular in the U.S. as little more than a digestif, but the reality is that port offers great range and varied styles that make it worth another look to everyone, not just a select few.

A Splash of History

Port wine hit the international scene in the 17th century when two Englishmen arrived in Portugal and stumbled across a rich and powerful wine they dubbed “blackstrap.” Their discovery led to a huge influx of British companies setting up operations in Portugal, where port lodges with names such as Sandeman and Fladgate remain to this day, a reminder to modern-day residents of the United Kingdom’s influence on the popularity of their country’s namesake wine.

Many countries produce port style wines today, but for a wine to be called port, it must hail from Portugal’s Douro Valley and follow a strict set of production protocols. Sixty percent of the wine must be made from a specific set of grape varieties that include Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and several others. The grapes are crushed to draw rich color, after which the wines are fortified to a range of 19 to 22 percent ABV (Alcohol by Volume). Addition of a high ABV grape spirit known as aguardente halts fermentation and maintains the sweetness of the wine.    

A Tale of Two Ports

Red port can be divided into two broad groupings, ruby and tawny, both serving as excellent aperitifs. Comparatively, the ruby port will have a high degree of sweetness, the tawnies a little less so. Both will leave a sense of heat at the back of the mouth and on the throat. This is due to the higher alcohol content of a fortified wine, so imbibe wisely.

Richer in color and more fruit forward than their tawny counterparts, ruby ports vary in quality and complexity. The most basic version is the Ruby Port, a wine that exhibits a dark ruby color and an inexpensive price point. Ruby Reserve Port adds a layer of complexity to standard ports with a longer yield on the palate, while the rarer Vintage Port is the most expensive and most sought after by collectors since it accounts for only one to two percent of total port production and is not produced every year. Youthful ruby ports pair well with blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola and Roquefort and also with fresh berries. Vintage ports are best left to speak for themselves; however, richer chocolate desserts can be enhanced with a taste of any fine port. 

Displaying paler hues and flavors of dried fruit and spice elements, tawnies also have several classifications. The classic Tawny Port is often sourced from less regarded vineyards, foregoing the extensive aging that others tawnies are subject to, giving it a paler color and fruitier flavor profile. Reserve Tawny Port is aged for over six years before bottling, subduing the lush fruit and giving the wine a lighter brown hue. Colheita Tawny is a port that hails from a single specific harvest and is relatively rare. Other tawny ports are usually blended from different vintages and are thus identified by how long they are aged rather than the vintage year. These can be aged anywhere from 10 to 40 years and are typically known as Tawny 10 Year, Tawny 20 Year and so on. As the aging increases, these wines generally lose their dried fruit flavor profile and emerge with more spice characteristics such as cinnamon and nutmeg. Most of these ports pair well with bittersweet and dark chocolate, dried fruit, nuts and even pumpkin pie.

Ports with Personality

If you’re new to port, here are three recommendations to give you a solid start:

Sandeman Ruby Porto ($12):

Vibrant ruby color with heavy aromas of strawberries and plum. Rich, round and warm on the palate.

Offley LBV Port 2005 ($20):

Bold and fruit forward with heavy elements of blackcurrant and blackberry. Sweet jam on the palate with a velvety, dense mouth feel.

Taylor Fladgate 10 year Tawny Port $22:

Wood flavors, spices, fig and maple with sweet red fruit. Soft, slightly juicy finish.

Hooray for Beaujolais

By Gordon Gilbert

The holidays are almost upon us, and with them comes the almost certain possibility of classically heavy and rich feasts.  No doubt we will experience our fair share of roasted turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauces and hams of all glazes. So what wine might pair best with the food and festivities of the season? Beaujolais.

Located south of Burgundy in France, Beaujolais is commonly associated with red wine, though there are white and rose wines made in this region as well. It is the red wines derived from the Gamay grape that deserve our strongest attention, as they offer a flavorful counterpart to all the rich fare presented before us.

Unfortunately, Beaujolais has had its image tarnished over the years by its tradition of rolling out wines on the third Thursday of November after harvest.  This Beaujolais Nouveau, primarily made with grapes from the clay-rich soils found in the southern portion of the region, is low in quality and depends on a process called carbonic maceration. The process yields wines that have very distinctive banana peel and strawberry bubblegum flavor. 

In the granite rich north, however, you will find the ten crus of Beaujolais. The ten crus are sub regions within Beaujolais that are mostly centered around a village with the same name.  They are as follows: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, Brouilly.  Wines from these crus are richer, fuller in body, and decidedly more complex than others from the region. When you see these wines on your retail shelf, they will be labeled not as Beaujolais, but by their own specific cru. Beaujolais Nouveau, the ones we advise you ignore, will often be labeled as simply Beaujolais.

Abbreviated Tour of the Ten Crus

Starting with the southernmost cru, Chateau de La Chaize Brouilly 2008 ($14/btl.) is a wine of fantastic elegance.  The light-bodied wine has a soft ruby color and delicate, fragrant aromas. It has notes of fresh strawberry and carnations on the palate, making it a perfect complement to poultry with cranberry compote. Perhaps its elegance is due in part to the fact that the architects of the estate buildings also designed the palace at Versailles.

As we move north we arrive in Morgon. Here, Domaine des Versauds Morgon 2009 ($14/btl.) offers a slightly heavier, yet still medium-bodied counter to the wines of Brouilly. This wine presents red cherry on the nose and palate, along with lingering notes of wild flowers.  There is also a slight chocolate note that contributes a touch of sweetness. Perfect for pairing with candied yams or sweet potatoes.

About two kilometers north lies Fleurie, home of Chateau des Deduits Fleurie 2009 ($18/btl.).  While still being light in body and having the unmistakable touch of wildflowers that Gamay can be trusted to provide, darker fruit is prevalent here.  You will experience black cherry, hints of tea and a subtle array of spice that simply shouts to partner with stuffing.

Domaine des Michelons Moulin-a-Vent 2009 ($18/btl.) completes our tour of the Beaujolais crus. There is a strong sense of violets and cassis on the nose that is repeated wonderfully on the palate, with marionberry and boysenberry coming along for the ride.  With subtle oak notes and engaging acidity, this wine makes an ideal match for roasted turkey.

The holidays may come and go, but memories of joyous gatherings ‘round the table last forever. Indulge in sweet treats and rich foods with abandon, and raise your glasses in a toast to the many blessings of the season.

Gordon Gilbert holds wine certifications from the Court of Master Sommeliers, Society of Wine Educators and the Culinary Institute of America. He has worked the floor as a sommelier for ten years and is currently pursuing his Master Sommelier certification. He can be reached at elgordo43@hotmail.com.

Chill Concoctions for Hot Summer Soirees

 By Gordon Gilbert

The dog days of summer are upon us. By now, you’ve probably had your fill of ice cold beers and frosty cocktails, but have you indulged in sangria yet? An invigorating wine punch with roots that go back to Portugal and Spain, sangria is an exceptional addition to summer soirees, providing refreshment that lingers on into our warm autumn months. Here are three ways to enjoy sangria from now until the chill of November approaches, made with wines that can easily stand alone.

To start with a play on the traditional red sangria, Balaclava will provide a crisp daytime concoction and leave a fantastic bordeaux to enjoy with chargrilled steaks later in the evening. Prepare by combining 25 ounces bordeaux wine, 1 thinly sliced cucumber, the juice of two lemons and 1 ounce simple syrup in a bowl.  In the same bowl, suspend a sieve containing the thinly pared peel of half a lemon.  Place the bowl and sieve in the refrigerator to infuse for an hour. Remove the sieve and add plenty of ice, 25 ounces mineral water and 25 ounces sparkling wine.

Chateau Haut Mazeris Cannon-Fronsac 2003 ($20/btl.) is a voluptuous bordeaux for Balaclava, with notes of mocha, dark fruit and sweet tannins that linger on the palate. Another choice, this one from the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, is the 2006 Château La Grange Clinet ($16/btl.).  Blackberry, black currant and a touch of spice give way to medium tannins in this incarnation of red wine. For the sparkling wine, Crémant d”Alsace Brut Lucien Albrecht Rosé ($15/btl.) is perfect as both a mixer and a stand-alone.  Made from 100% pinot noir grapes, it has a soft salmon hue and yields touches of raspberry and air dried strawberry. If rosé is not for you, Francois Montand Brut Blanc de Blancs ($15/btl.) from Gascony is an ideal substitute.  This wine will match white fish pleasantly and can hold its own as a tasty aperitif.

Next up, the oft forgotten white sangria, or Sangria Blanca. The mix is light, bright, delicate and perfect for soaring temperatures. Peaches and banana give the punch all the texture it needs, and as an added bonus, should things get out of hand, the stains are easier to remove than the red alternative!  For pitcher perfect Sangria Blanca, start by mixing a batch of banana puree. Liquefy two bananas, 1/3 cup of ice and 1/3 cup of water in a blender, then strain through a very fine sieve. Combine the puree with 25 ounces dry white wine, 8 ounces peach nectar, 17 ounces white grape juice, 3 tablespoons Cointreau and sliced peaches, bananas and lemons. Stir well and chill in the refrigerator overnight.  Add ice cubes just prior to service in a large bowl.

Miguel Torres Gran Viña Sol Penedès 2008 ($14/btl.), produced in Penedès just outside Barcelona, is wonderful in Sangria Blanca, but also makes a beautiful match with poached prawns and cannellini bean salad. Made predominantly from chardonnay and a touch of parellada, it has a deeper gold color and exposes mild tropical fruits to crisp, old world acidity. If a lighter-bodied wine with hints of citrus fruit is what you savor, then Pazo Serantellos Albariño 2009 ($11/btl.) will fit the bill. It is clean, brisk and excellent with shellfish.

If you simply cannot wait overnight, or have last minute guests, a Portonic is a quick fix. Initially created to combat the heat of a Portugese summer, it can be poolside ready in minutes. Simply combine 2 ounces of dry white port, 4 ounces tonic water and ice for an individual serving. For the port, try Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry White Port ($20/btl.), a velvety variety filled with notes of melon and honey. With a touch of tartness to it, this port pairs nicely with almost any lemon-forward dish.

When temperatures soar, let your palate go right along with it. Be bold and creative, mixing your favorite wines with equally agreeable fruits and juices. And of course, share your creations liberally with friends and family; you will surely find wondrous joys in the season.  

Gordon Gilbert holds wine certifications from the Court of Master Sommeliers, Society of Wine Educators and the Culinary Institute of America. He has worked the floor as a sommelier for ten years and is currently pursuing his Master Sommelier certification. He can be reached at elgordo43@hotmail.com.

Fine and Fair Weather Wines

By Gabriel Garcia

With chillier days behind us once again, the most colorful and vibrant time of year has arrived, warming our bodies and minds with the many simple pleasures of the season. Sun kissed blood oranges, Meyer lemons, key limes and grapefruits come to mind, along with garden grown basil, cilantro, rosemary and sage. And best of all, with these fresh ingredients come endless possibilities for lively cuisine and fine wines that pay homage to the bounty of spring.

Herb sesame scallops served with orange and fennel salad are a welcome nod to sand and surf, particularly when preceded by Santi Nello Prosecco Valdobbiadene ($15.00/btl.). Grown primarily in the eastern part of Italy’s Veneto region, Prosecco is a white wine grape that is made into a slightly sparkling (frizzante) or fully sparkling (spumante) wine. A delicate bouquet of golden delicious apples and Acacia flowers nuanced with flavors of apricot and citrus make it a perfect starter for a memorable meal. Moving on from the bubbly, Mendoza Station Torrontés 2009 ($7.00/btl.) is an ideal match for this fresh seafood dish. A favorite in Argentina, this crisp, aromatic white hits the nose and palate with the essence of flowers and subtle spices. For a wine with a little more body and structure that’s not quite a red wine, Rosé is a perfect accommodation. Rosé wines are very popular in the south of France around the spring and summer seasons for their refreshing qualities. Lively and fragrant, Domaine Fontanyl Rosé de Provence 2009 ($13.00/btl.) is a beautiful Rosé from Provence replete with inviting aromas of ripe berries and purple flowers. Flavors of ripe strawberry and wild cherry are showcased in a complex manner that retains the character of the fruit, but in a dry, straight-forward style.

Agave grilled chicken with citrus mint salsa beckons something light but flavorful, simple yet complex. With this delightful dish, do pair the Kim Krawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($18.00/btl.) from Marlborough, New Zealand, where many would argue that the best Sauvignon Blanc is made in the world. A delight for all the senses, aromas of lime zest, grapefruit, mint, lemon grass and jalapeño are backed with flavors of tart pineapple and gooseberries with a slight mineral finish. Thinking outside the box, or bottle as it were, the Mer Soleil Chardonnay Silver 2009 ($25.00/btl.) from Santa Lucia Highlands in the central coast of California is another excellent option. What’s unique about this Chardonnay is that it does not see any oak in the wine making process. Rather, the wine is fermented in cement tanks, allowing for the fullest expression of the grape without oak influence. Aromas of honeydew melon, green apple and steely minerals enchant while its medium body and rich texture reflect impeccable balance.

When the occasion calls for innovative home-cooking, roasted Peking duck with mandarin pancakes and plum sauce calls for Pinot Noir. A classic pairing with incarnations of duck, Tarras Estate Pinot Noir 2009 ($32.00/btl.) delivers silky tannins and notes of berry, cherry, and raspberry fruit. Roasted rack of lamb with tomato and black olive tapenade and rosemary scented polenta is captivating alone, but when paired with Cave de Tain St. Joseph 2006 ($25.00/btl.) it nears perfection. Juicy is an adept description of this Syrah, with black cherry and cassis notes layered with hints of black forest cake, briar and sweet tobacco. This wine originates from the Northern Rhone Valley of France where Syrah is king.

Why it is that in warmer weather our spirits seem to soar a little higher we may never know, but the feeling is undeniably invigorating. In this time of year and all others, enjoy the wine and food, live well and be happy.

Gabriel Garcia is a certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and works at Stripsteak by Michael Mina at Mandalay Bay. He can be reached at ovationman@hotmail.com

Grape Expectations for Pasta Pairings

 By Michelle Morey

There is nothing simpler, nor more satisfying than creating a memorable pasta or noodle dish while enjoying a variety of wines.  A comforting truth is that there are usually several wines that do complement, and the foundation for delicious synergy is possible.  Whether you revel in the deconstruction of food and wine components or simply appreciate a clear marriage of flavors, bask in honest pleasures at the table.

Historically, different cultures consumed some form of noodle-like food; generally composed of native ingredients including wheat, corn, millet, rice, quinoa and beans.  Happily, this same variety flourishes today and what may have been old is truly new again.

Spicy bean thread noodle salad, seasonal vegetables and sesame vinaigrette is ideal for a light meal paired with Deligeroy Crémant de Loire Brut ($15.00/btl.), sparkling wine from Loire Valley, France.  This blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc offers well rounded notes of lemon, apricot and florals while maintaining vibrant acidity.  This will enliven your palate and enhance slightly sweet, spicy, salty dishes.  Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling QbA ($10.00/btl.) from Germany is also suggested for its off-dry, classic Riesling qualities which are especially well suited to Asian cuisine.

Our homage to vegetables continues with quinoa penne, roasted fennel, red onion, olives, orange and pine nuts finished with olive oil, oregano and feta cheese.  Where fennel and olives go, so follow wine from Southern France; specifically, Château de Nages, Costières de Nîmes, Reserve Rosé ($10.00/btl.). This dry rosé made from Grenache and Syrah beautifully highlights berry fruit with a hint of pepper–just enough character to stand up to fennel and olives without overpowering multiple flavors.

For sublime gratification, indulge in cornmeal fettuccini, leek cream sauce and crispy pancetta with a glass of Kris Delle Venezie Pinot Grigio ($10.00/btl.).  Enticing aromas of tangerine, apricot, acacia and almond evolve nicely on one’s palate and finish with bright contrast to the richness of this dish.  If you desire red wine, consider Tarras Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir ($30.00/btl.) from New Zealand.  Earthy, dark cherry complexities pick up the pancetta accent, yet won’t confuse the taste of the overall dish.

With a bow to Emilia-Romagna tradition, warm platters of tagliatelle con ragù alla Bolognese are in order, along with bottles of San Felice Chianti Classico ($13.00/btl.) and Mauro Sebaste Barbera d’Alba Santa Rosalia ($17.00/btl.).  These regional wines from Tuscany and Piedmont, respectively, are equally steeped in history and offer flavors that match the intensity of hearty meat sauces.  Cherry and raspberry compose a balanced Sangiovese portrait, and rich black fruit and violet complete a Barbera profile.  Both blend seamlessly with traditional meat fare from this area.

Spanish and Mexican cuisines embrace fideo, coiled vermicelli simply prepared with tomatoes, chile peppers, garlic, onion, cilantro and dry grated cheese.  Torres Celeste Ribera del Duero ($16.00/btl.), Tempranillo from Spain, delivers plum, cherry, spice and herb in smooth Ribera style, character and compatibility with these ingredients.

Where food and wine were once exclusively unique to different cultures, international evolution is thankfully expanding our creativity, imagination and palates.

Holiday Cheer – Elegant and Accessible

By Michelle Morey 

If holidays evoke laughter and good cheer, add delicious appetizers with versatile, reasonably priced wine, and transform a modest gathering into an annual tradition.  The success of every party, picnic or fireside tête-à-tête is to choose the right food and drink for the occasion.  Selection guidelines include experience, preference and budget, but don’t be afraid to improvise and interject playfulness into your menus. Honor your guests by trying to anticipate their desires through your reflection of simple taste, ambiance and joy.

Greet one and all with an inviting glass of bubbly and a toast for the season and New Year. An appetite teaser on its own, as well as the primary ingredient in Cava Sangria and a pomegranate Cava cocktail, Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut ($10.00/btl.) from Spain offers a bright, balanced taste of apples, pears, and citrus. Other good values include Barefoot Bubbly Brut ($9.50/btl.) from California, an expression of green apple, kiwi, and peach, as well as, Francois Montand Brut ($9.00/btl.) from Côtes-du-Jura, France, imparting notes of golden delicious apple, Meyer lemon and an inkling of warm brioche.  For fans of South African bounty, consider Pongracz Stellenbosch Brut ($15.00/btl.); a delicate floral nose, Granny Smith apples and citrus describe this nuanced example.  Little bites ranging from spiced nuts, olives, smoked salmon, marinated goat cheese on baguette and kettle crisps are sure to enhance your love affair with sparkling wine from around the world.

Reach for a glass of chilled Goulart Torrontes ($11.00/btl.) from Mendoza, Argentina when indulging in vegetarian nibbles. Outstanding with white bean bruschetta, arugula and red onion, this aromatic, subtle beauty exudes lemon, pear and white florals. When celebrating Kosher, pair Yarden Golan Heights Chardonnay ($15.00/btl.) with cream cheese, olive, herb rugelach and sweet potato latkes, Indian spiced crème fraîche and pine nuts.  A rich, buttery Chardonnay beaming with ripe pear is just right with these appetizers.

As aromas of rosemary walnut biscotti, wild mushroom pizzettes and grilled baby lamb chops encourage guests to gather, open plenty of red wine to accompany your wintry fare.  Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages ($9.00/btl.) is a bright, fruity, lighter bodied wine made from Gamay, an inviting French selection ideal for grilled vegetables, cured meats and cheese. Creta Roble Tempranillo ($14.00/btl.) from Ribera del Duero, Spain is an exceptional, smooth-textured drink full of black fruit, violets, and spice, while Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.00/btl.) from Australia presents rich tones of black cherry, plum and chocolate.   

Tis time for that well placed cookie or chocolate dipped cannoli with a sip of something sweet.  Buller Fine Old Tawny ($12.00/btl.) fortified wine from Australia is heaven in a glass; tones of rich fruit cake, nuts and spice are sure to please, as is Ceretto Moscato d’Asti ($14.00/btl.), a slightly effervescent, delicate dessert wine ideally enjoyed with shortbread biscuits and fruit.

Any gathering of family and friends is an invitation to indulge in tasty food and drink while reconnecting with loved ones.  Much appreciation for accessible wines that gladden the spirit, inspire conviviality, and help us forget our cares!

Wines in Tune with Autumn

By Michelle Morey

As days grow shorter and desert nights slightly cooler, envision substantial meals that still taste like summer, but offer a preview to autumn’s alchemy.  While tomatoes and corn may still be worthy of a spirited final fling, winter squash, eggplant, peppers, leeks, apples and pears are sure to inspire in the months to come.  With fall produce at its peak, carefully select wines to enliven and enhance flavors.

Crostini with spicy roasted eggplant spread accented with basil is a welcome greeting from the cook and an ideal aperitif nibble with a glass of Schramsberg Mirabelle MV Brut Rosé ($18.00/btl.).  A lingering nose of florals, red berries, apples and hints of toasted brioche gives preview to an elegant sparkler from one of California’s finest producers; a much appreciated rosé with serious intentions and versatility.

Now that our appetite is primed, a platter of Fritto Misto–Calamari, scallops and lemon is ready for chilled bottles of Colterenzio Schreckbichl Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ($15.00/btl.).  Green apple, citrus and minerality resound in this straight forward, medium-bodied wine from Alto-Adige, Northern Italy; a lovely partner for shellfish and seafood.

In anticipation of fall’s cornucopia of winter squash, delight in perfecting your favorite dishes.  Pumpkin ravioli with walnuts, sage, brown butter and shaved parmesan cheese is sure to please with Girard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($18.00/btl.).  A bright palate of Meyer lemon, melon and apples are balanced by a creamy brulée finish.  The richness of the pumpkin is countered by the brightness in the wine leaving one thankful for the harmonious marriage.  Roasted acorn squash stuffed with apple smoked pork sausage lightly glazed with molasses comes to life with Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25.00/btl.) from the Loire Valley, France.  This is off-dry Chenin Blanc at its best; orange blossoms, pear and honey impeccably balanced with acidity are perfection with this expression of acorn squash.

Wild mushroom ragout over creamy polenta and Laetitia Arroyo Grande Valley Estate Pinot Noir ($20.00/btl.) create a comfort combination to be repeated.  Mulberries, cherries and spiced plum framed by a suggestion of earthiness underscores mushrooms beautifully. If you favor heartier cuisine, collect like wines to complement.  Château des Tours, Côtes-du-Rhône Réserve 2007 ($26.00/btl.) from France is a stunning accompaniment with braised pork, caramelized root vegetables and apples.  Bramble berries, raspberry compote and savory notes of smoke and spice complete this portrait for enjoyment now and with modest aging.  Cheers to the Reynaud family of Château Rayas where this wine originates. Additional selections to consider include Titus Napa Valley Zinfandel ($20.00/btl.) and Chappellet Napa Valley Mountain Cuvee Red Bordeaux Blend ($18.00/btl.).  Winemaker Phillip Titus is applauded for these vivid wines, traditionally crafted and reflective of varietal and vineyard character.

Fall conjures remembrances of feasts, warmth and laughter with toasts to harvest and hearth.  “Long life to the grape!  For when summer is flown, the age of our nectar shall gladden our own.” –Lord Byron.

Bold Burgers and Beverages

By Michelle Morey

What started out as a lunch counter convenience food has evolved into a summertime staple, an often indulged craving and a challenge to “dream a better burger.”  Whether you reminisce of cheeseburgers and root beer floats, or long for a veggie patty, curry aïole and a dry Riesling, this versatile sandwich offers the perfect partner for beverages ranging from soda fountain favorites to artisan beers and international wine.

Despite the impression that a hamburger is a simple, home cook’s creation, one is encouraged to consider its inherent subtleties: warm bun, juicy ground beef, cool crisp lettuce and zesty condiments can comprise a complex marriage of flavors and textures.  Keeping that in mind, selecting complementary wine is influenced by levels of fat, condiment acidity, spicy heat and primary tastes from your toppings. 

For many, a vision of hamburger heaven is a toasted baguette topped with lean ground sirloin and sautéed mushrooms complete with a glass of Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Côte-de-Brouilly ($18.00/btl.).  This lively Gamay from Beaujolais is brimming with cherries and wild strawberries accented with earthy hints of violet and spice; a light bodied beauty that enhances without overpowering its singular components.  Other wines to covet for less complex burgers include Italian Dolcettos and New Zealand Central Otago Pinot Noirs ($14.00 – $20.00/btl.). 

A meat lover’s hankering is surely quelled with a juicy bacon cheeseburger on poppy seed bun and a bottle of Pillar Box Red South Australia ($8.00/btl.).  This Aussie blend is composed of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, and handily stands up to bold, layered flavors.  Vibrant raspberry and black currants are intertwined with spice; overall, a well balanced bargain for many occasions and worthy partner for juicier meat, cheese toppings and spicy barbeque sauce.  David Bruce Central Coast Petite Sirah ($15.00/btl.) and Artezin California Zinfandel ($20.00/btl.) are also excellent choices for hearty combinations.

“Limitless possibilities” best describes burger and wine combinations.  International selections from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and Chile offer the most quality and diversity coupled with broad range affordable pricing.  Bodegas Renacer Punta Final Clásico Malbec ($10.00/btl.) from Argentina exudes deep notes of blackberry and cassis and is a terrific option for lamb burgers with roasted tomatoes, while Chile’s Montgras Reserva Carmenère ($11.00/btl.) blends well with spicy peppers, curries and Asian sauces on turkey, Portobello mushroom and veggie versions.

Keep fish fanciers sated with crispy cod and salmon patty sandwiches, spicy salsas, herb caper sauces, and vegetable chutneys.  To douse the flames from piquant dressing, enjoy chilled glasses of Francois Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition ($16.00/btl.); bright notes of acacia, orange peel, white peach, and hints of minerality describe this delicate, off-dry white wine.  Saint Clair “Vicar’s Choice” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($8.00/btl.) is another lovely selection with its grapefruit, gooseberry and passion fruit tones and is particularly pleasing with fresh herbal sauces and cod.

Hear, hear for a happy summer; one that includes a well-primed grill, buckets of chilled beverages, and our healthy infatuation with the perfect, mouth watering burger!

Chardonnay Continues to Captivate

By Michelle Morey

 The veracity of Chardonnay; growers easily cultivate it, winemakers fashion it with pleasure, and we all love to drink it.  While Chardonnay appeals to most, there are some who have not yet experienced its candid glow. 

Individual preferences, past tastings, and the breadth of wines available can certainly confound.  Unravel confusion surrounding “noble” Chardonnay by first considering its chameleon-like qualities in the vineyard.  Cool climate French vines hailing from Burgundy, Mâconnais and Chalonnaise produce dry wines that reveal green apples, pears, pronounced acidity and minerality, where warmer climes in parts of California and Australia showcase pineapple, melon and peach fruit tones with hints of honey.  Geography, weather, expressive winemakers and vignerons who respond to market predilections coalesce to produce wines for all consumers.

If budget permits, varietal purists salute a handful of outstanding white Burgundy domains; Colin-Deléger, Comtes Lafon and Michel Niellon ($50.00/btl.).  While these trophies are extraordinary, indulge in generic and village appellation wines when possible.  Most paramount producers market a Bourgogne Blanc from younger vines or lesser vineyards. The standard of care is high and the quality exceptional; Denis Mortet Bourgogne Blanc ($30.00/btl.).  Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Houillères” ($45.00/btl.) is an excellent village choice; granny smith apples, Anjou pears and hints of almond pair superbly with roast chicken and risotto primavera.  Also, seek out gems from Mâconnais such as Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé ($22.00/btl.), the perfect quaff with platters of calamari and prawns.  Burgundy can be perplexing, but local wine merchants are eager to assist and the journey is worthwhile.

Many turn with gratitude to consistent, standardized wine brands from California and Australia.  Beaulieu Vineyards, Kendall Jackson, Rosemount Estates and Lindemans all produce quality wines at every price point.  Kendall Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($14.00/btl.) is comprised of equal parts Santa Barbara and Monterey County grapes.  Ripe pineapple, mango, citrus, fine acidity and a creamy texture make this a remarkable value.  Lindemans Bin 65 ($6.00/btl.) from Australia is internationally rated as worthy for the money and highlights melon, peach and tropical expressions.

Regardless how adaptable Chardonnay is in the vineyard, California recognizes Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Los Carneros, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Rita Hills, and Arroyo Grande Valley as viticultural areas keenly suited to this varietal.  For an opulent, richly flavored Chardonnay, select Acacia Carneros ($14.00/btl.); the result of meticulous care in the vineyard and winery.  If your inclination is family tradition, reverence to sustainable farming, and Burgundian methods of winemaking, select Talley Estate Arroyo Grande Valley ($22.00/btl.).  Layers of citrus, green apple, spice and toasted nuts complete this picture perfect reflection of the South Central Coast.

Diversity is the heart and soul of wine, and winemakers are challenged to establish their own territorial and varietal taste.  Where the market place has profoundly affected the once straight-forward winemaking equation, thankfully, happy consumers and those dedicated to excellence have the final word.  Chardonnay round the world is wonderfully unique, and in the end, it comes down to the simplicity of conscientious farming and honest winemaking. Cheers to our bounty of choices!

Brunch Knows No Rules…

By Michelle Morey

Just for grins, ask random strangers for their definition of “brunch.”  This hybrid meal truly breaks all the rules with its many variations.  Foods that may or may not bear any relationship to one another, ranging from sweet to savory or a whimsical marriage of the two, provide an excuse to create a festive event.  Boldly serve popovers and jam with garden peppers stuffed with salt cod, while imbibing drinks from all ends of the spectrum.

A terrific beginning to any interpretation of brunch is sweet ricotta fritters accented with lemon zest, pine nuts and powdered sugar with Gramona Imperial Cava Gran Reserva ($25.00/btl.) sparkling wine.   Ripe apples, tea biscuits and spice waft from the glass, enticing one to sip often while enjoying these rustic donuts.  For those who fancy mimosa, stock your cellar with Gruet NV Brut ($14.00/btl.) sparkling wine from New Mexico; crisp citrus notes enhanced by a fine mousse is perfect for sparkling wine cocktails paired with shortbread, muffins and scones.

For fans of omelets, frittatas and quiche of all varieties and international influence, keep a flush selection of white wine.  Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay ($17.00/btl.) is Burgundian in sensibility, but with a California bloom; brioche married with tropical fruit offers a delicate richness that bolsters eggs with seasonal vegetables.  For outstanding white Burgundy value, consider Domaine de Roally Mâcon Viré-Clessé ($22.00/btl.); fresh and lively Chardonnay fruit coupled with deep mineral character and modest toasty oak.  If a smattering of bacon, pancetta or Serrano ham is desired, dry and slightly off-dry Rieslings are in tune to counter-balance the smoked and dry aged attributes.  Look to Germany, Alsace and Australia for inspiration and producers such as J.J. Prüm, Trimbach and Grosset Wines for consistent quality.

Escape to the sea with an afternoon brunch or Sunday lunch starter course of sautéed prawns in Pastis with lemon and cherry tomatoes.  Chilled bottles of Bonny Doon Ca’ Del Solo Estate Albariño ($18.00/btl.) should be served as an apéritif and an inseparable component to the dish.  Bracingly crisp citrus and hints of florals make this wine versatile and inviting with many cuisines.

With spring upon us, take advantage of our days in the sun with “al fresco” dining as often as possible.  Seasonal salmon, Gulf Coast red snapper and young lamb will soon be the centerpiece to many outdoor affairs.  Lighter-bodied single varietals and blended reds will surely complement these preparations.  King Estate Oregon Pinot Noir ($22.00/btl.) offers a welcome drink with whole roasted salmon and steamed red snapper.  Bright cherries, raspberries, rose, hints of spice and a soft finish complete this wine.  As for that leg of lamb, look no further than Estancia Napa Valley Red Meritage ($27.00/btl.), a rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot exudes black cherries, herbal accents, chocolate and vanillin.

A fine old Basque saying, “To know how to eat and drink is to know enough” puts it all in perspective.  Whether you enjoy brunch or Sunday lunch, gather often, embrace flavorful food and toast with earnest wines!