Resplendent Rhône Style Reds
If in pursuit of wines that are amiable, possess complex aromas, and dance with every red meat and grilled dish in the room, run to the Rhône Valley and New World “Rhône Style Blends” department of your local wine emporium. Syrah reigns king in Northern Rhône, and Grenache holds court in the south, while “New World” cousins in California, Washington and Australia are emphasizing ripe fruit and toned down tannins to create a luscious, youthful drink. It’s easy to be keen on the French classics; a reverence to signature varietal flavors and a growing availability of drinkable great wine values are appreciated. Happily, “more modern” styles are also evolving, and the wines to covet are the ones from producers that reflect origin through pure flavors while conveying its connection to the soil.
On the subject of great wine values, consider Perrin Côtes-du-Rhône AOC Réserve ($10.00/btl.), a composition of Grenache plus equal parts Syrah and Mourvédre from the venerable Châteauneuf-du-Pape house of Château de Beaucastel. Juicy blackberry and cherry fruit are balanced with hints of herb and black pepper; overall, a smooth and nimble wine.
Another plum French selection is Féraud-Brunel Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages AOC ($15.00/btl.), a medium bodied blend of primarily Grenache and Syrah that exudes an exotic range of wild berries, black cherries and earthiness. Again, historic pedigree prevails with this joint venture between vignerons Laurence Féraud of Domaine de Pegau and André Brunel of Domaine les Cailloux. Enjoy now with slightly more robust country fare.
Lately, Syrah has surged in popularity among California growers, and in the hands of
thoughtful winemakers, fine examples are entering the market. Cline “Cashmere” California Red ($14.00/btl.), a silky combination of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre reveals big raspberry, cherry and chocolate notes with undertones of plum and black pepper. And, thanks to irrepressible winemaker Randall Graham, adventurous Rhône style wines have had a loyal following for years. Bonny Doon “Le Pousseur” Central Coast Syrah Blend ($22.00/btl.), Syrah with a splash of Grenache elicits poetry in a glass and is perfect with roasted meats, wild salmon and foraged mushrooms. Vibrant complexity of bramble berries, game and spice rounds out this unaffected expression of varietals and place. Qupé also produces exceptional wines in the $17.00-40.00 range.
For avid Rhône style wine lovers, consider boutique wines from Edmunds St. John (www.edmundsstjohn.com; $15.00-30.00/btl.) purchased via California merchants. Husband and wife team Steve Edmunds and Cornelia St. John have been devoted to creating first rate wines in California since 1985. Edmunds St. John “That Old Black Magic” California Red ($20.00/btl.) is handcrafted from three cuvées of Syrah and Grenache from vineyards in Mendocino and El Dorado Counties. This beauty resonates with berries, dried florals, pepper, sage and licorice on the nose and palate. Delight in this wine over an evening or several days; it is well worth the effort to track down these gems.
Embrace the character, complexity and richness of Rhône wines and welcome true interpretations of these remarkable varietals produced outside of France. May we all discover wines that are thrilling to smell and unforgettable to taste.
Toasting the Holiday Season
The Gift of Wine
By Michelle Morey
Whether you are choosing wine for family gatherings or artfully selecting gifts for party hosts, be inspired by an unprejudiced palate and comforted in the knowledge that the “world of wine” is as broad as it has ever been. Ultimately, it is a nimble exercise in determining preference, quality and whether or not the wine is “splurge-worthy”; it’s simply a matter of taste and value.
Capture the imagination of romantics, poets and writers by offering a gift of sparkling wine. Almost every wine-producing country, as well as multiple regions within, lay claim to a representative bubbly. French Champagne, Italian Franciacorta and California exemplars are sure to please. Pol Roger NV Brut Réserve ($45.00/btl.) consistently reveals the true class and finesse of this esteemed Champagne house. Bellavista Franciacorta NV Brut Cuvée ($40.00/btl.), one of the finest sparkling wine producers from Lombardy, lauds delicately ripe fruit with a luscious mousse, and Domaine Carneros by Taittinger, Carneros Vintage Brut ($30.00/btl.) epitomizes winemaker Eileen Crane’s ability to adapt “old world” sensibilities to “new world” expressions in California. Start brushing up on your party toasts, for the wine will be flowing, and “if the aunt of the vicar has never touched liquor, look out when she finds the Champagne.” – Rudyard Kipling.
As the holiday season morphs from busy to hectic, an afternoon with friends and a healthy dose of play may be in order. Wines such as Kanu Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc ($10.00/btl.), a balance of bright melon, nectarine and honeysuckle, and Bethel Heights Oregon Pinot Gris ($16.00/btl.), an eruption of ripe stone fruit, tangerine and lime blossom, will delight a host and whet your appetite for further whimsy. Frank Family Napa Valley Chardonnay ($30.00/btl.) is another “play-worthy” selection; a full-bodied portrait of apples and pears with hints of vanilla and spice.
Wintry winds, a crackling fire and a pot of simmering goodness keep kitchen sages busy and appreciative of red wine offerings. Domaine Drouhin Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($37.00/btl.) sets the standard for Burgundian style greatness in Oregon. Beautiful structure betwixt red fruits and hints of spice proclaim Véronique Drouhin and family French royalty in the Pacific Northwest. Jean-Louis Chave Côtes-du-Rhône “Mon Coeur” ($18.00/btl.) is a multi-layered, Grenache based, brambly reflection of the Southern Rhône Valley that extols the happy partnership between renowned winemaker Jean-Louis Chave and Eddie Gelsman. Rao’s Napa Valley Merlot ($45.00/btl.), one of the Pellegrino family’s signature wines, pays homage to its namesake restaurants while honoring family tradition and dedication to quality. Velvety texture and dark plum musings contribute to this lovely California merlot; a perfect gift for any occasion.
If you want to garner grateful thanks from your holiday host, consider any number of rich and sweet wines: dessert style Sherries, Ports, Sauternes, Eisweins, just to name a few. Like sparkling wine, there is enormous range of selection, price, value, and quality in this category; explore with abandon.
As the holiday season unfolds, take time and rejoice in celebrations with gifts of wine, good will, laughter and blessings for the New Year.
