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The Wine Cellar: Reds and Rosés: Spring Wines from Provence
By Gordon Gilbert
When we mention the names Saint-Tropez, Monaco and Cannes, images of the French Riviera rush to mind, complete with mega yachts and film festival superstars. With all that extravagance, it’s hard to imagine the merit a simple bottle of wine could hold. But thankfully, there’s plenty of value to be found between Marseilles and Nice in the region of Provence, a locality flush with diverse and affordable wines that are as perfect for the warm climate of the Mediterranean as they are for the desert we call home.
A Rosé by Any Other Name…
Rosé is king in Provence, accounting for over 75% of its total wine production. While many tend to associate the salmon colored wines of Provence with the flood of white zinfandel on the market, nothing could be further from the truth. These wines are predominantly dry, crisp and cool, the perfect accompaniment to a nice lunch on the stern of your yacht – or, more realistically, a casual spring meal with friends by the pool here in Las Vegas. Generally served cool or chilled, rosés can be most refreshing on even the warmest of desert days.
Produced from red grapes, rosé is only kept in short contact with the grape skins, yielding a range of colors from pale pastel pink to Shirley Temple red. The wines are generally blended from Cinsault, Grenache Mouvedre and Syrah grapes, as well as more obscure local varietals, all of which benefit from the dry yet tempered maritime climate. With a wine of such uncompromising range, all things Mediterranean make for excellent food pairings, from tomato and mozzarella salads to feta cheese and olives or grilled lamb. Even without the addition of cuisine, rosés carry the most appeal as a refreshing respite from the afternoon heat.
For those who don’t own a yacht with its own zip code, here are three moderately priced rosés:
Domaine Rabiotte Aix en Provence Rosé 2010 ($12):
Clean notes of red berries, cherry and rose are heightened by this light-bodied wine. The tart dryness enhances salivation on the palate and makes for a perfect food wine or aperitif.
Domaine Ott Les Domaniers Provence Rosé 2010 ($20):
Peach and apricot stand tall in this medium bodied wine. Domaine Ott is known as one of the most recognized producers of rosé in Provence. Salad nicoise makes a perfect food pairing.
Domaine du Vieil Aven Tavel 2010 ($15):
From just outside of Provence, this Grenache based rosé from the southern Rhone is dry and medium bodied with strawberry and raspberry notes that dominate with a cutting minerality. Outstanding with light seafood pastas.
Red, Red Wine
To speak solely of rosé in Provence would do an injustice to the beautiful reds of this region. Dark, thick skinned grapes do best in the warm Mediterranean sun and can lead to wines of incredible complexity. Chateau Simone, Chateau Pradeaux and Domaine Tempier are three such superstars. Wines produced from these grapes command higher premiums but are certainly worth the price of admission with plums, cassis, hints of spice and herbs at the forefront. Serving these reds while cool but not very cold aids in suppressing the tannic nature of the grape varietals for a smoother taste. Any type of grilled meat usually makes for a harmonious food pairing, so you have an excuse to get back to the barbecue before the sweltering summer months kick in.
Two standout reds for those who require a little more color than pale pink include:
Fontanyl Cotes de Provence 2009 (Red; $13):
Deep, dark hearted fruit with elements of pepper and tarragon. Medium in weight on the palate with tannins that are perfect for engaging the succulent flavor of grilled meat.
Domaine Tempier Bandol 2009 (Red; $35)
An age worthy wine, full bodied yet restrained, made predominately from Mouvedre grapes with Grenache, Cinsault and a touch of Carignan. Powerful spices and cassis dominate.
Whether your tastes run to red or rosé, the wines of Provence are sure to provide a relaxing libation to help you feel refreshed before the summer sun returns. Pair a glass with some tasty barbecue, enjoy a sip at the pool or just share a bottle with friends for a smooth spring delight.
Tip from the Sommelier
The question of what temperature to serve wine has been largely debated. For those of us who keep their whites in a refrigerator and reds at room temperature, it’s good to follow the “half hour rule” to find that optimum. Remove whites and rosé from the fridge 30 to 40 minutes prior to serving, and put those reds into the fridge 30 to 40 minutes prior to serving. Bottoms up
